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Dealing with Uncooperative Soil

Dealing with Uncooperative Soil


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The condition of the soil often dictates success or failure in the landscape. Before spending lots of money on landscape plants be sure that your soil is suitable. Consider the following:

- Soil Testing: Soil testing is useful in determining particular soil characteristics. Utah State University offers soil analysis. The commonly recommended test is the routine test, costing $14. It includes phosphorus and potassium levels; pH; salinity and the soil texture (clay, sand, silt, loam, etc.). Visit the USU Analytical Laboratory at usual.usu.edu for more information.

- Rocky Soil: Rocky soil is usually fine for growing plants, but rocks make digging or cultivation problematic. It is better to get rid of surface rocks where turf and garden areas will be. Be innovative with the removed rock. Are there areas rock mulch can be used to suppress weeds and conserve water? Are any retaining walls to be built? In the worst situations, it may be necessary to garden in raised beds to or to haul in top soil. If top soil is hauled in, try to apply a minimum of 6 inches.

- Soil is too hard to dig in: During the summer, it is common for soil to become too hard to dig or cultivate. This is problematic for new homeowners without an existing irrigation system trying to create a landscape. In many areas, secondary water is stubbed into the yard. Try installing a temporary hose bib into the stubbed secondary water. This allows a hose end sprinkler or drip hose to be used to moisten the soil to make it more amenable to digging or cultivation. If this is not possible or if secondary is unavailable, judicious use of culinary water may be needed to moisten the soil.

- Clay Soil: Those with clay soil often have difficulty with water penetrating into the soil without running off. If possible, amend with 2-3 inches of quality compost (not peat moss) 6 inches deep before planting. This will break it up and begin the process of creating quality top soil. It can take 5-10 years of doing this for noticeable progress to occur in improving soil quality. An irrigation management technique includes breaking irrigation events into segments spread out over a few hours to allow water to better penetrate the soil to prevent runoff. When fertilizing turf, make half applications twice as often to avoid run off of applied nutrients. In some situations it is advantageous to use raised bed gardening, if other options have not worked.

- Compacted Soil: Compacted soils occur where excessive foot or vehicle traffic is present. With this, soil structure is destroyed and water will not penetrate through. More frequent hollow tine aeration can help with minor to moderate lawn problems. In extreme situations, soil ripping is needed. If the soil is ripped or if the problem can be alleviated before planting, start by incorporating 2-3 inches of quality compost as deeply as possible. If the area continues to see heavy traffic, install pavers or flagstone to alleviate re-compacting the soil.

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