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THE OCEAN — As a man in my mid-30s, I've come to realize I'm not really good at — well — anything.
I'm mean, I'm OK at a lot of things like eating burritos, napping, warning humans about the dangers of bears and pingpong. But I'm not really good at any one thing. I'll watch videos or sports events and just sit in awe that one human being can have so much talent and determination.
I start to think that maybe I'm just lazy and if I worked really hard I could be incredible at something too. But then I saw this video and realized no matter how hard I work, I'll never be as good at anything as Koa Smith is at surfing.
Smith rode one incredibly long wave in Skeleton Bay, Namibia, and the video is mesmerizing. It seems to go on forever and you start to think the video is on a loop. But it's not. It's just Smith riding the same wave for over two minutes while going through eight barrels and traveling over 1.5 km. That's just under a mile for us Yanks.
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Smith looks so effortless as he surfs along the surface of the wave, but after about 45 seconds, I realized the amount of work needed to go into staying balanced and focused. His core is working overtime and his legs are shifting his weight back and forth to counter the unsteady water. It's really incredible when you think about it. It is for me, at least, because I once tried to swim the length of my neighbor's kidney-shaped pool and I got exhausted and nearly drowned in 3 feet of water. And Smith is surfing the same wave for over two minutes while staying as cool as a cucumber.
I may not be talented at pretty much anything, but I do love watching talented people do their thing and sharing it with all of you. So I've got that going for me.