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Over the years I’ve seen plenty of restaurants in Utah come and go. Most don’t even last 5 years, but this weekend I had a terrific dinner at a restaurant that’s been at or near the top of the heap in Salt Lake for more than 25 years. For better than a generation now, The New Yorker restaurant has been the go-to downtown restaurant destination for Utahans in search of fine dining in Salt Lake City.
Enjoying a wonderful New Yorker meal on Saturday night I wasn’t so much bowled over by the cutting edge cuisine. But what I love about the New Yorker – and what I think other longtime customers also love about the restaurant – is that it’s so dependable. Although the menu evolves with the times, the dishes that emerge from Chef Wil Pliler’s New Yorker kitchen are virtually timeless. I never get the feel like I’m at the mercy of the latest food fad when I’m at the New Yorker.
What could be more classic than starting dinner with oysters on the half-shell or maybe the New Yorker’s excellent onion soup? And although my favorite dish on the menu is the braised Sonoma rabbit with olive, caper, and Meyer lemon sauce – and the fettuccine with Maine lobster and tomato-basil cream sauce is also fabulous – I strayed a bit this time and had a sort of New Orleans style “jambalaya” risotto with prawns, scallops, and lobster than was out of this world!
Maybe it’s not surprising given its longevity, but the service at the New Yorker is as dependable as the food, with some seasoned servers who have been working there almost since it opened in ’78. So if you’re looking for a dependable dining experience, it’s smart to rediscover a timeless classic: The New Yorker.
