Estimated read time: 3-4 minutes
OGDEN — You'll likely have to wait another year to get speculaas, pfeffernusse cookies and other Dutch Christmastime treats that have been a holiday season staple over the years at Topper Bakery.
But the mother-and-son duo who run the popular locale, which closed after a devastating fire in August 2021, are doing what they can to reopen the bakery as quickly as possible — notwithstanding the many bureaucratic hurdles they've faced. They have their fingers crossed the new-and-improved business at 2516 Monroe Blvd. will reopen its doors next month.
"We've tried and tried and tried," said Valeen DeRyke, noting the many calls she's received from the public clamoring for Topper's Christmas specialties. "Now we're aiming for January."
Lance DeRyke, her son, said he's barely had time to breathe since the fire. He's juggled rebuilding efforts with work at a vitamin supplement manufacturer to make sure he has enough money to make ends meet. Until last August, he was also baking for some of Topper's commercial clients at another Ogden bakery that had provided space.
"I haven't had a day off for a couple years. There hasn't been much of a rest yet," he said. He notes the varied hoped-for reopening dates have come and gone, crossing his fingers the locale will resume operations by late-January.
An Aug. 30, 2021, fire destroyed much of Topper Bakery, which Lance DeRyke's grandfather Harry DeRyke opened in 1939. It's an Ogden staple that made a range of goods — donuts, brownies, eclairs, cookies, bread, cinnamon rolls and more. But it was particularly known for the Dutch treats that would come out around Christmas each year — speculaas, cookies made with a variety of spices that are vaguely reminiscent of gingerbread; pfeffernussse, another type of cookie; and botterletter, a pastry.
Officials suspect a crack in the cooling vent of the Topper oven allowed heat to escape, igniting dust and causing the fire back in 2021, Lance DeRyke said. As part of rebuilding efforts, a new fire-suppression system has been installed and the interior has been refurbished. New equipment has also been acquired, though some of the tried-and-true machinery remains, including a donut fryer that dates back to 1951.
"It'll still be used for donuts, no problem," DeRyke said.
The locale is largely ready, just awaiting final inspections from health and fire officials. Getting the varied permits and inspections needed to pass muster has been one of the most trying parts of the process, say the DeRykes. "It seems to be par for the course, from what they say," Lance DeRyke said.
One task remains that is out of government officials' hands, though — refurbishing the distinctive Topper Bakery sign and top hat that goes outside on the front of the business. DeRyke is in the process of repainting the signage in the front area of the bakery. Once that's done, he'll be able to properly place display cabinets that are to go in the space.
Meantime, fans of the locale regularly ask about the status of rebuild efforts. Once open, the plan is to maintain the variety of baked goods Topper was known for.
"So many phone calls. I've had to tell people, 'I'm sorry,'" Valeen DeRyke said. "We are really excited to get back going, that's for sure."
