The brisk march of progress passed right by Monument Valley — which is great, because in places like this, "progress" has nothing to offer.

The southeast corner of Utah looks about like it did 300 years ago: vast, wild and sunbaked, with deep canyons and towering buttes variegating the desert plane.

Its simplicity is stunning and perfect. It's Jeff Buckley's "Hallelujah." It's Kazimir Malevich's "White on White." It's a white t-shirt and jeans. The iconic desert scene has back dropped dozens of Hollywood movies, but to go deeper than what you see on the silver screen, enlist a Navajo guide for a horseback tour of his motherland.

Drive down Highway 191, and then turn east on 162 to stand in four states at once or turn west on 163 where Monument Valley's ominous sandstone monoliths patrol the Utah-Arizona border. Stop at the Navajo Tribal Park Visitor Center for info, guides and permits, and then hike, ride or drive between East and West Mittens, Elephant Butte, The Three Sisters and Rain God Mesa and be sure to stop at the Navajo Tribal Park.

Valley of the Gods and Natural Bridges National Monument also live nearby, with access from Blanding, Monticello and Bluff. For small-scale pleasures, shop for handmade turquoise jewelry and Navajo tacos at roadside stands and trading posts along the way.

If you don't know by now that sunrise and sunset are the best times to see all of this, you haven't been paying attention. After dark, far from city light pollution, the stars are almost too much. But be careful staying out late. You're in the middle of nowhere — have an exit strategy.

Key Attractions

• Monument Valley
• Natural Bridges National Monument
• Valley of the Gods
• Four Corners Monument
• Hovenweep National Monument
• Historic Bluff
• Native American culture
• Goosenecks State Park
• Edge of the Cedars State Park Museum
• Canyonlands National Park (Needles District)
• Lake Powell
• Trail of the Ancients National Scenic Byway

Monument Valley Balloon Festival December 12-14

Monument Valley's stunning at ground level, but it's a whole different experience for hot air balloonists who get to look the monuments in the eye. Join thousands of onlookers for the Monument Valley Balloon Festival and try to reconcile the visuals: bright inverted teardrops floating against towering red rock, anti-gravity in a land of massive monoliths.

In only five years, the event has grown from a couple balloons and a few hundred spectators to a desert army entertained by sponsored booths, face painters and Navajo dancers. Bring the kids and pray for no wind.

Upcoming Events

John Wayne's Monument Valley Ride (Nov 3-7)

This is a four-day historic horseback tour that will take you deep into "John Wayne Country," located in the heart of the Navajo Tribal Park. Rumor has it the guide and her family served as guides for early movie producer John Ford.

Forrest Gump Half Marathon (Nov 8)

After he "decided to go for a little run" in Alabama, Forest Gump crisscrossed the country for 3 years, 2 months 14 days and 16 hours. Then, at a scenic spot in Monument Valley, he stopped. The point is marked on the highway and it forms the finish line of this lovely half.

Olde Fashioned Christmas Festival (Dec 19-20)

Held in the Navajo Tribal Park, this festival puts an interesting spin on traditional Christmas.

Bluff International Balloon Festival (Jan 16-18, 2015)

Balloons, activities on the ground, a 5k run, crafts and food.

Did you know?

He wasn't the only director who loved Monument Valley, but John Ford filmed there so often they named a lookout after him. John Ford's Point was used in a scene from The Searchers (1956) in which an Indian Village is attacked. After your trip, look for familiar landscapes in Stagecoach (1939), My Darling Clementine (1946), For Apache (1948), She Wore a Yellow Ribbon (1949), Rio Grande (1950), Wagon Master (1950), Sergeant Rutledge (1960), How the West Was Won (1962) and Cheyenne Autumn (1964).

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