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Some olive oils don't live up to labels, report says


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SALT LAKE CITY — You can always trust the labels on food, right? Actually, a recent report says some of the olive oils at grocery stores don't quite measure up to the label.

From cooking to dressings, from bread dipping to desserts, olive oil is used often. But a Forbes Magazine article says the olive oil that's in your pantry is "most likely a scam" because many of the brands are only partially olive oil.

“Each olive has a distinct flavor note,” said Robyn Koning, manager of Mountain Town Olive at The Gateway.

Her patrons get fresh-pressed olive oil poured out of sealed stainless steel canisters as they watch.

“These are called fustees. They keep the light out and the air out,” she explained.

Koning said the big problem with some grocery store olive oils is lax labeling rules. Often, it means the olives and oils can come from several places.

“A lot of times the labeling will show ‘made in Italy,’ when in fact the olives have come from Spain, Tunisia, other variety of olive oil-producing countries,” she said.

Koning said some producers add in other oils, such as safflower and canola, plus other ingredients to keep the color and taste consistent.

“The health benefits have really been diluted at that point,” she said. “It’s also been said they add beta keratin and chlorophyll to the olive oil and call it extra virgin olive oil, when in fact they don’t pass the standards, the minimum standards to be called extra virgin olive oil.”

Another problem, Koning said, is that many olive bottles on grocery store shelves are clear.

“If they’re bottled in light, clear bottles, the light affects the quality. It continually degrades the olive oils,” she said.

Koning said look for olive oil that's packaged in dark bottles. And look for a brand with the date the olives were crushed or pressed. Olive oil is best used within 18 months of pressing, she said.

And brace yourself for a distinct taste from the real stuff.

“The more robust the olive oil is, the more peppery and bitter the olive oil can taste. But the more health benefits you can get that way,” she said.

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Bill Gephardt

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