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SALT LAKE CITY — The popularity of an enthusiastic restaurant review has launched a North Dakota columnist and her hometown into the national spotlight.
In a March 7 article for the Grand Forks Herald, veteran columnist Marilyn Hagerty, 85, reviewed the Olive Garden that had recently opened in her hometown of Grand Forks, N.D. The restaurant is only the fourth of the Italian chain in the state — "the lines were long in February," Hagerty wrote.
The review, which at first glance seems more likely to appear in The Onion than in the Herald, drew nearly 300,000 views on the Herald's website within two days. According to the Herald, the top story that had nothing to do with Hagerty got only 5,700 page views.
Hagerty's assertion that the Olive Garden is the "largest and most beautiful restaurant" in Grand Forks has drawn the attention of the nation since the article was posted, but the columnist is at a loss as to why.
"Why all of a sudden it is important is more than I can fathom," she wrote Thursday in an email. "We do not have more than three or four elegant restaurants in Grand Forks. We have fast food, small places, large places."
Hagerty went into detail in her review about the decor of the "impressive" restaurant, noting the "waiters in white shirts, ties, black trousers and aprons adorned with gold- colored towels"; as well as the "vases and planters with permanent flower displays on the ledges."
Some of Hagerty's long-time readers — and her editor — have argued that when the writer spends more time on a restaurant's ambiance than on its food, she did not enjoy her meal as much as she could have. And Hagerty seemed to spend very little time on the food.
"The chicken Alfredo was warm and comforting on a cold day," she wrote. "The portion was generous. My server was ready with Parmesan cheese."
"On a hot summer day, I will try the raspberry lemonade that was recommended," she added.
Internet critics pounced on almost immediately, and its inexplicable popularity led to the appearance of Hagerty on the Today show and on Good Morning America, as well as in myriad newspapers nationwide.
Very much enjoying watching Internet sensation Marilyn Hagerty triumph over the snarkologists (myself included).
–Anthony Bourdain
And the critic was even invited by celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain to dine at Le Bernardin in New York City.
"Very much enjoying watching Internet sensation Marilyn Hagerty triumph over the snarkologists (myself included)," Bourdain said.
Hagerty is in New York with Ryan Babb, owner of the Grand Forks Herald.
"My newspaper sent me to New York to make appearances on television and dine at fine restaurants," she said, mentioning she ate Wednesday night at ShakeShack, "where lines of people eat in Times Square."
It's a far cry from Grand Forks, she said.
"A different view, for sure."
