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Ask the question of which are the first and the last vegetables that are harvested from the garden and the answer is - the "lowly" root crops. Some of best and tastiest garden vegetables are those that grow below the soil.
Root crops are an eclectic mix of different plants from many different genera. Some grow quickly and produce a crop in just a few weeks. Other take the entire growing season but reward you with an abundant harvest.
Because they take little space, they are ideal for small gardens. Because they have no definite maturity stage to make them edible, they are ideal for short-season garden areas where the frost free season is unpredictable.
Lest you think root crops produce a root just to treat you, the roots are their storage organs. These underground fleshy stems or roots are where the plants place the excess food they store to help them reproduce or to help them regrow in subsequent years.
To clarify the distinction, some plants including potatoes have underground stems. They are distinguished from true roots because they have buds that will grow new plants. Most true roots do not have buds so you cannot propagate new plants from these roots.
Most root crops are hardy or semi hardy vegetables so the above ground portions tolerant light freezes and the edible roots are protected by the soil. That means you can safely be plant most of them right now along the Wasatch front and a few weeks late in the colder valley locations.
Most of these crops do best when planted earlier in the season. Since the root is a storage organ that expands to store the food manufactured in the plant top, the faster the top grows, the bigger the root gets.
Warm, bright days and cool nights maximize root expansion and bright colors. High temperatures, particularly at night make the plants respire faster or burn more food. That burns off the sugars used to enlarge the roots and to form bright colors.
Soil is important when growing root crops. Most prefer deep rich organic soil or sandy soil with added organic matter. Carefully screen rocky soils to remove stones. Rocky or heavy soils cause forked roots and these vegetables are not transplanted because that causes forked roots.
Improve your soil by adding well-rotted manure or compost. Avoid using fresh manure as it stimulates root branching that also causes forked roots. Till the soil deeply and mix in the organic matter to create a suitable seedbed. In most soils the root crops grow best with a balanced nitrogen and phosphorous fertilizer. Excess nitrogen fertilization stimulates top growth at the expense of root growth.
All tops with no roots or small roots come from planting too close or by not thinning plants. As the seedlings emerge, it is critical to thin them to the desired spacing. Use the root diameter at harvest to determine spacing. For example a root harvested at a 2 inch diameter means plants are thinned to 2 inches.
Beets and turnip tops are thinned and may be eaten and are often planted more densely than normal for this reason.
These root crops are good choice for Utah gardens. The numbers in parentheses are the days from planting until harvest for that variety. There are also many other varieties that grow well locally.
Beets. Cylindra (60), Detroit Dark Red (63), Golden Beet (Yellow) (55). Harvest beets at 2 inches in diameter, although they will grow much larger if left all season. While larger beets are tougher, they also are sweeter and store better in a root cellar.
Carrots. Scarlet Nantes (68), Danvers Half-Long (73), A-Plus Hybrid (71), Thumbalina (70). Carrot seeds are tiny so press them into the soil or cover them very lightly. Carrots are edible at any stage and develop until the ground freezes. Freezing and thawing damages the exposed roots, so mound them over with soil or harvest carrots before weather gets too cold.
Onion. Crystal White Wax Pickler (90), Evergreen White Bunching (green) (60) Fiesta (100), Sweet Sandwich (100), Utah Yellow Sweet Spanish (110), Walla Walla (90). Onions are bulbs, not roots. Plant onion seed now for maximum vegetative growth before warm weather initiates bulbing. Do not plant sets if you want large bulbs because they try to flower, not produce large bulbs.
Parsnip. Hollow Crown' (105), 'All America' (120), 'Harris Model' (120). Plant parsnips now, using fresh seeds because the seed germinates slowly. They can be overwintered in the soil and this often enhances the eating quality.
Radish. Champion (28), Easter Egg (25), Icicle (white) (30). Plant radishes early or as a fall crop. When planted in summer, they go to seed without producing edible roots.
Rutabaga. American Purple Top (90). Rutabagas are similar to turnips but do not get strong flavors and fibrous when they get large (4 to 6 inches). Sow the seed now and harvest when needed or before the ground freezes.
Turnip. Purple Top White Globe (55). Turnips are harvested at 2 inches in diameter. Three successive plantings may provide a continuous table supply. Store the last planting like carrots. Turnips will develop fiber and strong flavor if allowed to grow to large sizes.
Several less common root crops include celeriac which is a type of celery that develops a turnip-like root. Horseradish, Jerusalem artichoke, sweet potatoes and potatoes are also placed in this root vegetable crop group. Choose those that appeal to you and enjoy them in your garden.
Larry Sagers
Horticultural Specialist
Utah State University Extension Service
Thanksgiving Point Office
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