Photographer takes on the highest peak in the Americas

Aconcagua is a very big mountain, and the dream of reaching the top has to match its size.

Standing 22,835 feet tall, Aconcagua - in western Argentina, 75 miles northeast of Santiago, Chile - is the highest mountain in the Americas and the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas. Every year almost 4,000 people, most of them from the U.S., attempt to put their feet on the top. Last January, during the Southern Hemisphere summer, I was one of them.

For many, it's a "because it's there" challenge, but for others, climbing the mountain is a way to prove or celebrate something.

I went to mark my 50th birthday - and to find solace on this massive peak known in the local Indians' language as "The Stone Sentinel."

Scaling the slopes of Aconcagua via the normal route is relatively easy; advanced mountaineering skills like using ropes or ice climbing are optional. But still this is serious adventure, requiring rigorous physical training for several months prior to departure, proper acclimatization, top-quality gear and a reliable guide. The high altitude, storms and cold weather prevent more than half of the climbers from getting to the top - and some die trying.

My problems began when I didn't allow enough time for acclimatization.

On the climb, I grew tired carrying my heavy sleeping bag and too much warm clothing; my water bottles froze up for lack of adequate protection. I got as high as the high camp - 16,100 feet - twice (once to carry equipment) before one of my climbing companions developed cerebral edema and had to be evacuated by a rescue helicopter.

So I didn't make it.

But I'm thinking about going back to this spectacularly remote place. And trying again.

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IF YOU GO:

GETTING THERE: Since a climbing permit ($330 in high season, Dec. 15-Jan. 31; good for 20 days) must be obtained in person, your trip will begin 115 miles from the mountain at Aconcagua Provincial Park headquarters in Mendoza, Argentina.

The easiest way to get to Mendoza is to fly through Santiago, Chile - or Buenos Aires, though that requires changing airports. Airfares from Chicago are about $1,200 if you shop around.

Mendoza is your last chance to get any missing gear, purchase food and get some rest. (It's also the wine capital of Argentina - though I'd recommend tasting all that great wine after you return from the mountain.)

ORGANIZING A CLIMB:

There are three ways to tackle Aconcagua:

1. Climb with one of many reliable companies from Argentina with set itineraries (see below). They will take care of all the logistics and provide some equipment. Expedition prices begin at about $2,000 (not including climbing permit).

2. Create your own itinerary, then use one of those companies to organize logistics and provide guiding services. A more expensive option but a good one if you're climbing with friends.

3. Climb without a guide - but only if you are an experienced mountain climber. I've had some experience, so I chose to go with a private group without a local guide (we had to turn back when one of my fellow climbers developed altitude sickness). You still will need to contract a local company to transfer your equipment to base camp and provide toilet facilities.

THE CLIMB: Aconcagua is a part of Aconcagua Provincial Park, and there are park ranger stations at the entrance and at all camps. The two most popular routes to the top are Rio Horcones (the normal route - and the one we took) and Rio Vacas (the advanced route, requiring mountaineering skills; also known as the Polish Glacier Route). Medical assistance is available at both base camps where medical check-ups are mandatory before climbing higher.

The climb takes four to six days from the base camps (about 14,000 feet), but from Mendoza (2,310 feet) you really do need one week - as I learned the hard way - to acclimatize yourself at lower altitudes first. Allow at least two weeks for the entire expedition.

The biggest challenges of the climb are the cold (it's normally well below-zero Fahrenheit near the top) and, of course, the altitude (most people are evacuated due to acute mountain sickness, which can be fatal). Physical training before the trip is also essential.

In case of emergency, rangers will assist with evacuation and organize rescue missions to the higher camps if possible. A helicopter rescue from base camp has to be authorized by doctors, but it is free.

There are strict regulations for garbage disposal and toilets with a minimum $100 fine.

ALTERNATIVES: There also are great trekking trails in the mountain's foothills, which attract about 2,500 tourists every year who aren't ready to take on Aconcagua itself.

INFORMATION: For general information and expedition companies: www.aconcagua.com.

For gear and climber logs: www.peakware.com/peaks.html?pk1895.

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(c) 2006, Chicago Tribune. Distributed by Knight Ridder/Tribune News Service.