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London Fashion Week got underway Monday with shows from two top Asian designers heading down the catwalk first, amid simmering controversy over calls for stick-thin models to be banned.
The furore over hyper-slim models in Madrid has threatened to cloud the London clothes fest, where Giorgio Armani's show on Thursday is among the most eagerly-awaited parades.
"I think it's a debate that will happen all in good time and all contributions are welcome," six foot model Erin O'Connor told AFP, diplomatically reticent.
At the launch breakfast, Stuart Rose, the chair of the British Fashion Council that organises the event, declined to be drawn, commenting only that the week had started "slightly controversially".
Rose, also chief executive of British department store Marks et Spencer, has previously indicated he is not in favour of legislation.
But big names and officials are likely to have a hard time avoiding such questions for the duration of the five-day, 50 show event, being held at the Natural History Museum in the west of London.
On the catwalks, Indian designers Ashish and Manish Arora were set to be two of the highlights of the first day's line-up.
Ashish, whose surname is Gupta, was asked by Madonna to design an outfit for her Confessions tour and other famous clients include "Sex And The City" actress Sarah Jessica Parker, model Jerry Hall and footballer's wife Victoria Beckham.
His show took place in autumnal Holland Park, away from most others, and was dominated by Egyptian style tunics, dresses playfully incorporating dinner jacket features and angular lapels as well as dazzling sequinned mock animal skins.
Arora made his London Fashion Week debut last year and is known for his colourful designs and diffusion label Fish Fry. His show was scheduled for later Monday.
Gharani Strok's show attracted an array of footballers' wives and girlfriends, including Elen Rives, Spanish partner of Chelsea and England star Frank Lampard.
There were celebrities on the catwalk as well -- Lily Cole, the redhead teenager frequently mentioned in the skinny models row, strode nonchalantly down the catwalk, showing no sign of being affected by her new-found notoriety.
The clothes themselves were classic with pretty detailing -- billowed cuffs and light floral designs in white and yellow were standouts.
Pressure has been growing on the organisers of fashion to ban ultra-skinny models following restrictions imposed earlier this month at Madrid fashion week.
Organisers of the Spanish event placed restrictions on "unhealthily thin" models -- deemed to be those with a body mass index of below 18 -- from appearing and authorities in Milan are said to be considering a similar ban.
Body mass index measures body fat based on height and weight and it is thought that a 5ft 9in model would have to weigh at least 55 kilograms to comply with that stipulation.
The restrictions have triggered widespread media speculation about whether models such as Kate Moss, reportedly 5ft 6in and 49 kg, and Cole could be affected by them.
British culture secretary Tessa Jowell said last week that the issue was not one for government to deal with, but went on to express concern over it.
"It is, however, an issue of major concern for young girls who feel themselves inferior when compared to the stick-thin young women on the catwalk," she said.
"I think it's fair to say that when they wake up in the morning, the first thing most 15 and 16 year old girls do is feel their tummies."
Hilary Riva, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, which organises the event, has said that the organisation "does not comment on or interfere in the aesthetic of a designer's show".
Other highlights this week will include Italian designer Armani's first London show, which will feature a new range for the anti-AIDS initiative "Product Red".
The event on Thursday is set to feature stars including US singers Beyonce and Alicia Keys and actor Leonardo Di Caprio.
kah/mt/shn
AFPLifestyle-Britain-fashion-Asia
AFP 181640 GMT 09 06
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