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THE NASTY BITS by Anthony Bourdain. Bloomsbury, 288pp, $29.99. Anthony Bourdain's new book does nothing to dispel his image of a culinary Jack the Lad (enfant terrible if you happen to be in a French kitchen).
I suspect that he relishes the role. The Nasty Bits is a collation of short opinion pieces drawn from Bourdain's columns and magazine features, each spiced with mild obscenities and philosophising about food, eating and culinary habits inside and outside the world's kitchens. Bourdain is an engaging personality and this is all good visceral fun when digested in small servings. Taken whole, it becomes a chewy slab of porterhouse steak. -- Christopher Moore
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