Review: 'Tony' serves up a thoughtful portrait of Anthony Bourdain's messy early years

SALT LAKE CITY — There are two things I love a little more than I probably should: food and movies.

Food has gotten me into trouble with my doctor and, occasionally, with my wife. I don't pretend to be a great cook, but I love trying new restaurants just as much as I love unapologetically ordering curly fries from Arby's. I'll take all the grief people want to give me. Curly fries are a culinary experience.

Movies have been part of my life for as long as I can remember. They've become my career, my hobby, and one of my favorite ways to connect with other people.

So naturally, I'm an easy target for food movies.

Whether it's the heartwarming charm of "Chef," the magic of "Ratatouille," the elegance of "The Hundred-Foot Journey" or even the dark satire of "The Menu," I'm usually willing to pull up a chair.

That's exactly why "Tony" worked so well for me.

"Tony" follows a young Anthony Bourdain during his early years as an ambitious chef in New York City. Long before he became the globe-trotting storyteller audiences came to love, Bourdain was talented, driven, stubborn and more than a little arrogant. Rather than telling his entire life story, the film focuses on a defining chapter that shaped the man he would become.

A character who earns your empathy

One of the things I appreciated most about "Tony" is that it refuses to sand off Anthony Bourdain's rough edges.

Years ago, I read Bourdain's memoir, "Kitchen Confidential." My first reaction wasn't admiration. It was frustration. He came across as cocky, reckless, and convinced he knew everything.

But something shifted as the book went on.

Bourdain himself acknowledged that younger version of himself needed a healthy dose of humility. As he matured, I found myself connecting with him more and more.

This movie captures that same balancing act remarkably well.

Tony isn't particularly likable for much of the film. He's selfish, impulsive, and pushes away the very people trying to help him.

And yet, somehow, you find yourself rooting for him anyway.

That's because the filmmakers understand there's a difference between making someone likable and making someone human.

Even when Tony makes frustrating decisions, you begin to recognize pieces of yourself in him. Most of us don't wake up one morning, learn a valuable life lesson, and instantly become better people. Growth is usually slower than that. It's awkward, repetitive, and sometimes we have to make the same mistake several times before it finally sticks.

I appreciated that "Tony" doesn't settle for the familiar Hollywood version of personal growth.

By the time the credits roll, you may not necessarily want to grab dinner with Anthony Bourdain, but you understand him. You empathize with him. And more importantly, you hope he continues becoming the man you know he's capable of being.

Dominic Sessa impresses, but Antonio Banderas steals the movie

Dominic Sessa continues proving that "The Holdovers" wasn't a fluke.

He carries much of this film on his shoulders, and that's no easy task when your character is intentionally difficult to embrace. Sessa somehow manages to make Tony simultaneously admirable and exasperating. It's a nuanced performance that asks the audience to wrestle with conflicting emotions rather than offering easy answers.

As good as Sessa is, though, Antonio Banderas quietly steals nearly every scene he's in.

Banderas has been delivering memorable performances for decades, but I genuinely think this ranks among his best work.

He plays the kind of mentor every young person hopes they'll encounter at least once in life. Someone who sees potential before you do. Someone willing to challenge you without giving up on you. Even if you had a wonderful father growing up, you'll find yourself wishing this character could pull up a chair beside you and offer a little wisdom.

It's a warm, understated performance that gives the movie much of its emotional heart.

A slow burn worth savoring

If you're expecting a traditional rise-to-success biopic filled with dramatic speeches and triumphant victories, this isn't that movie.

"Tony" is patient.

There are no massive action sequences. No obvious heroes and villains. Just people trying to figure out who they are while navigating demanding kitchens, complicated relationships, and the consequences of their own decisions.

That slower pace won't work for everyone, but I found it refreshing. The story gives its characters room to breathe without overstaying its welcome.

What's surprised me most isn't how much I liked "Tony" walking out of the theater.

It's how much more I've liked it since.

After the screening, I turned to my brother and simply said, "I liked that."

A few weeks later, while we were having dinner together, I found myself bringing the movie up again.

"The further I get away from 'Tony,'" I told him, "the more I like it."

He laughed because he'd been thinking the exact same thing.

Not every movie needs to change your life to be successful. Sometimes a film quietly lingers in your thoughts long after you've left the theater. "Tony" does exactly that.

What parents should know

"Tony" is rated R, and it earns that rating. Parents should expect frequent strong language, drug use, sexual references and situations. Anyone familiar with Anthony Bourdain or "Kitchen Confidential" will probably find the content unsurprising, but it's definitely intended for mature audiences.

Conclusion

"Tony" isn't my favorite food movie, but it doesn't need to be.

It's a thoughtful, honest character study about an imperfect young man trying to become someone better. Strong performances from Dominic Sessa and an outstanding Antonio Banderas elevate an already engaging story, while the film wisely avoids the temptation to simplify a complicated life into an easy inspirational tale.

Like a great meal, it's one that stays with you longer than you expect.

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