THE GREAT OUTDOORS — It’s officially summer and things are getting hot. For outdoor rock climbers, it is time to start chasing the shade in pursuit of comfortable temperatures.

With the new shady stipulation added to the typical criteria of diverse grades and a comfortable hang, finding the perfect spot to climb can be difficult. To help, here are some of the best outdoor climbing spots in northern Utah to help you beat the heat and make sure you and your friends can climb all summer long.

American Fork: The Membrane Wall

This crag stays kind of cool because of its north-facing orientation and the river that runs in front of it. The Membrane is a great place to hit after work, but can also easily offer even a diverse group of climbers a full day of climbing options. The climbing is characterized by a variety of pockets and edge climbing with tons of angles and features. If you are comfortable climbing 5.11c, don’t miss the classic “License to Thrill.”

Grade Range: 5.9 to 5.13

Sun/shade: Shade all day

Rock type: Limestone

Approach: 2 minutes

Echo Canyon: Clint Eastwood Wall and The Dry Wall

These two walls can entertain just about everyone and are so close together, it is easy to hit both of them in a day. These two walls are located next to the road and have very different orientations, perfect for if you are chasing the shade or sun.

The Dry Wall (5.10 to 5.13) gets morning sun and afternoon shade, while the Clint Eastwood Wall gets morning shade and afternoon sun. This zone is well-bolted; pockets and technical movement characterize the climbing. Consider a stick clip for some of the harder routes that start in the cave at the Dry Wall.

Grade range: 5.6 to 5.13

Sun/shade: Both (2 aspects)

Rock type: Conglomerate

Approach: 1 to 2 minutes

Little Cottonwood Canyon: The Industrial Wall

The Industrial Wall has quality, granite sport climbing in a beautiful setting. This area sees less sun and includes the cooling effect of a mountain stream. If hiking in the mountains doesn’t deter you, check this place out to avoid the crowds.

The routes are slab or near vertical and take delicate footwork and body position. This area can make for a great addition to a day of climbing on the Little Cottonwood classic Pentapitch or anything in the Coal Pit Buttress. For someone looking for something a little steeper, check out Cool Your Jets (5.12a) just across the way from Industrial Wall.

Grade range: 5.7 to 5.11

Sun/shade: Morning and evening shade

Rock type: Quartz monzonite

Approach: 20 minutes

Big Cottonwood Canyon: The Pile

This short and powerful crag packs a punch. In true Big Cottonwood fashion, these short routes have bouldery cruxes and flat holds that create some wicked pump, despite their shorter length. It is also next to a beautiful creek which helps keeps things cooler, and the wall sees only a little bit of sun in the middle of the day.

Be careful when pulling your rope as it has a tendency to land in the water. Don’t miss out on the BCC classic Right Pile (11d).

Grade range: 5.10 to 5.12

Sun/shade: Shade in the morning and late afternoon/evening

Rock type: Quartzite

Approach: 3 minutes

For more information on indoor or outdoor climbing around Salt Lake City, check out the Momentum Indoor Climbing website.

What is your favorite place to climb during the summer? Let us know in the comments.

Jonathan Vickers is the Digital Media Manager for Momentum Indoor Climbing. In addition to managing Momentum's online presence, he also coaches as part of the Momentum Climbing School and is an American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) certified guide for Red River Adventures. His personal climbing is dictated by seasons and whims.

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