Where to go ice climbing along the Wasatch Front

Where to go ice climbing along the Wasatch Front

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THE GREAT OUTDOORS — If you say, “winter sports,” most people immediately envision skiers flying down a hill, but there is a whole other part of the mountain you don’t need skis to explore. Ice climbing is becoming an ever-increasing popular recreational activity for outdoorsmen and women in the winter months.

Ice climbing routes dot the state, but conditions can be fickle and hard to find year to year. Climbers should always be sure to check weather conditions before planning a trip and be sure not to climb when ice conditions are unstable. Also, always check avalanche conditions before venturing out.

Also, it is very important that you have the proper gear and correct experience level before attempting to ice climb any route.

From beginners to experts, here are the best places to ice climb this season.

Beginners

Everyone who is new to ice climbing has probably been to Stairway to Heaven, a climbing area located just west of Bridal Veil Falls up Provo Canyon. While this famous climb has multiple pitches, the first one is easy to set up a top rope at and there are a few bolts on this ledge to set multiple routes. Because of its accessibility and reliability, be prepared to sit and watch other climbers for awhile, which is a great way to learn technique from others.

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The Great White Icicle up Little Cottonwood Canyon is also a great multi-pitch route for beginners. Park 2 miles up the canyon and follow a well-traveled foot path to the base of this four-pitch climb. This one is also a high trafficked climb, so always have your helmet on and be ready to dodge when you hear the words, “Ice!”

Last Chance Falls in Logan is another reliable classic that can easily be top-roped. With 100 feet of good, thick ice, this area sits 9 miles up Logan Canyon.

Intermediate

While Bridal Veil Falls rarely freezes over, the falls just to the right of it usually do. You will need a more experienced climber to lead the climb on Right and Left Bridal Veil, as well as White Nightmare, but these cascading falls are a little longer than the neighboring Stairway to Heaven area and will give your more ice climbing practice.

For those who are wanting to start leading the climbs, the most important advice is to do lots of laps, said local ice climber Casey Hyer, who has been climbing ice since 1996.

“It’s more important to have a very important mentor and have a lot of mileage before you lead ice,” he said.

A week at the Ouray Ice Park in Colorado or a day at the Stairway to Heaven area is great practice for those transitioning from beginner top-roping to leading.

Expert

There is plenty of ice around Provo Canyon and Stewart Falls is no exception. It is a long, beautiful climb, but also dangerous due to steepness and high avalanche danger in the zone. As always, check conditions before climbing and be sure you have the necessary equipments and skills for the conditions.

In Big Cottonwood Canyon, there are mixed routes (both rock and ice) at Storm Mountain Park, and further south in Santaquin, climbers can find a variety of climbs, including some mixed.

For those getting into ice climbing, gear can often be a setback. If you are in the Salt Lake area, you can rent gear from the University of Utah Outdoor Adventures for about $70 for a weekend. In Utah County, Hansen Mountaineering regularly has gear rentals for a great deal.

Dangers of ice climbing

It’s also important to have a knowledge about the dangers of ice climbing before participating in it. One of the biggest dangers that everyone experiences at least once is getting hit by falling ice. It is often inevitable, so you always need to wear a strong helmet when by the routes. Although it can be cold at the base of climbs, the sun can quickly melt the top, Hyer said, so pay close attention to weather forecasts before heading out.

Avalanches can also be dangerous, especially because many ice climbing routes sit below avalanche paths. Check conditions before climbing and know avalanche safety such as rescue techniques. As in any type of climbing, knowledge of the sport will help tremendously to keep you safe. Know basic knots and be aware of your gear at all times. Frozen gear does not take falls as well as dry gear, so you need to be able to assess when a situation is safe to keep climbing or not.

What are your favorite ice climbing routes? Let us know in the comments.

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