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SALT LAKE CITY — Server Abby Perkins' regular Saturday breakfast customers at Lamb's Grill Cafe were a little nervous about the sale of the 92-year-old local institution to a California restaurateur.
"Some of the old-timers asked, 'What's going to change? Is the menu going to change?'," Perkins said during a break from dishing up plates of eggs Benedict, crispy waffles and other breakfast specialties.
It's the kind of place where customers like to recall that nothing's changed since they ate there as children, the veteran server said. She herself described finding "a family" when she joined the staff of the state's oldest restaurant a year ago.
Now, though, owner John Speros has sold the Main Street restaurant where he worked 57 of his 67 years, first helping his father and then, as an adult, buying the business with his sister, and later, buying out her interest.
"I've spent my whole life taking care of this business, literally my whole life," Speros said. "I care deeply about it. I'm also smart enough to know it's time for me to get the heck out of the way."
I think it's a positive thing in regard to the restaurant going forward I feel in my heart I've been holding it back. I kind of lost my passion.
–John Speros
He said on his last day as owner he believes his decision to leave will improve Lamb's.
"I think it's a positive thing in regard to the restaurant going forward," Speros said. "I feel in my heart I've been holding it back. I kind of lost my passion."
The deal he made with Francis Liong, a general manager in the hip Chaya Brasserie restaurant chain that started in Beverly Hills, requires Liong to keep the 30-member staff, including chef Gary Christiansen, who's been at Lamb's for more than 40 years.
Liong, whose wife is from Logan, said while he's bringing in a new executive chef to put some modern touches on a menu that features lamb shanks, liver and onions, and other traditional selections, any change will come slowly.
"Part of the reason why I bought this place is because of the history," Liong said. "It will be a gradual change … I totally understand the sensitivity of this establishment and I'm planning to find the balance between the old and the new."
He said change is necessary to stay competitive, with the nearby downtown City Creek Center shopping, entertainment and dining complex set to open next spring.
"I have to elevate the service and the food and to modernize a couple of food items on the menu. Otherwise, you know, it would hard to make it," Liong said, declining to be more specific until the new executive chef is named.
That's what has Salt Lake teacher David Keyes, a longtime customer, concerned.
Part of the reason why I bought this place is because of the history. It will be a gradual change … I totally understand the sensitivity of this establishment and I'm planning to find the balance between the old and the new.
–Francis Liong
"I expect he's going to make changes to try to attract a different crowd and Lamb's will lose its flavor," Keyes said after finishing a favorite lunch, the salmon special. "I'm afraid to come in and see a big plate of tiny little nouveau food."
Patrick Zwick, who is retired from playing with the Utah Symphony, said he's been coming to Lamb's for 50 years for dishes like corned beef because it's "reminiscent of the America I loved … It's old Salt Lake."
Standing outside the restaurant's front window, decorated with stuffed toy lambs and a red neon sign that reads "lamb's good food," Zwick said he remembers seeing, as a child, a portrait of George Washington that still hangs in the restaurant.
Will he continue to come to Lamb's? "It depends," he said. "We'll see."
Speros has his own memories of the wheelers and dealers who frequented the restaurant over the years, often sharing counter space with the down-and-out or tucked into a dimly-lit back booth.
Business leaders started meeting as the chamber of commerce years ago at the counter, he said. Law firms had their own booths, but sometimes had to be moved so they couldn't overhear opposing counsel. Politicians plotted campaigns.
"I've seen everything here, from the time I was a child," Speros said. "This is where all the big deals were made. And they still happen."
Still, Speros said he's ready to say goodbye. With a stack of books collected over the years from Sam Weller's bookstore across the street and travel plans, he said he's looking forward to retirement.
"I'm sure it's going to hit me at some point in time," he said. "But certainly Lamb's has survived the Great Depression, it has survived World War II … I can't imagine Lamb's won't survive my retirement."
Email: lisa@desnews.com
