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INDEPENDENCE ROCK, Wyoming — For millions of years, a wind-polished monolith has stood rising from the flat plain on the bank of the Sweetwater River in Wyoming. This sentinel of the plains is called Independence Rock.
The rock derives its name from the fact that the earliest American visitors, who were trappers, traders and explorers, would often celebrate Independence Day at the rock. This giant granite rock was one of the most famous landmarks along the Oregon, California and Mormon Trails. It is estimated that over 500,000 emigrants passed by the area from 1843-1869 on their way to rich farming land, religious freedom or the Gold Rush, according to the Wyoming State Historical Society.
According to interpretive signs located at the rock, it was generally believed by emigrants that if you could reach this rock by the 4th of July, you would beat the winter snows of the Sierra Nevada.
These emigrants faced unimaginable challenges along their six-month journey to the promise the new dreams the frontier held. Cholera and other dieseases, a lack of food, fatigue, stampedes, wild animals, and accidents were just some of the challenges that eventually littered the emigrant trails with gravesites, according to the historical society.
Once the emigrants reached Independence Rock, it was truly cause for celebration. If they happened to be there on Independence Day, the celebrations were intensified. Pioneer journal entries documented by the Wyoming Historical Society mention flags and banners being raised atop the rock and dancing in the moonlight.
To commemorate their excitement and gratitude upon making it that far on their journey, early travelers would often mark their names upon the rock with wagon grease, paint and chalk. Many individuals chiseled thier names into the rock to serve as witness to their passing. These names are noted in some of the earliest journals of trappers and pioneers.
According to interpretive signs at the historic site, when Father DeSmet visited the rock in 1841, he was so impressed with the amount of names already visible on the rock at that time, that he named it the "Great Record of the Desert." Signs also state that when John C. Fremont visited the rock in 1843, he noted "The rock is inscribed with many a name famous in the history of this country".
If you visit the Independence Rock State Historic Site now, there is an established parking area and signs that tell about the historical and natural significance of the rock. A short trail leads from the parking area over to the base of the rock.
Along this trail you may encounter cows, jack rabbits, a rattle snake or other desert creatures so keep your eyes peeled. Just before the trail reaches the rock, it crosses a small footbridge over the old Oregon Trail where wagon ruts are still visible.
Once the trail reaches the rock, you can climb up its face and explore the summit, cracks, boulders and granite lenses that make up the historic landmark. When you first reach the summit, you might be disappointed because you don't see many names in the rock. However, if you look closely, you will see thousands of inscriptions that slowly standout.
The scene from the summit of Independence Rock is also very beautiful. Bold granite peaks cloaked in evergreens rise from the plain to the south and to the west, the river dissappears into the large crack in the mountains known as the Devil's Gate. The Sweetwater River meanders across the flat.
The summit area of the rock is an interesting place and much larger in area than it appears from below. There are "huecos" or hollows in the rock that often times are full of water forming tiny reservoirs. The face of the rock is streaked with water stains in places and colored by various lichens in others.
On the western edge of the rock, there is an old black wrought iron enclosure which protects the final resting place of an unfortunate overland traveler. A sign on site states, "This National Treasure is part of the historic legacy belonging to all Americans."
The greatest threat to the rock today is vandalism and ignorance. If you visit Independence Rock State Historic Site, be respectful of the effort and sacrifice made by pioneers to reach this milestone and carve out their names upon the rock.
Independence Rock is located approximately 355 miles and five hours northeast of Salt Lake City. To get there, follow Interstate 80 east to Rawlins, Wyoming, then head north to Muddy Gap on Highway 287. At Muddy Gap, turn right and head east towards Casper on Wyoming Highway 220 and continue on that highway until you reach Independence Rock.
It is a long drive for Utahns, but considering the historical significance to the settlement of the Salt Lake Valley and the settlement of the Western United States, it is time well spent and a drive worth taking.
Jaromy Jessop is a perpetual explorer, outdoor enthusiast, history nut, and Utah native. He can be contacted at jdjessop2000@gmail.com.
