What you should know before hiking to Havasupai Falls

What you should know before hiking to Havasupai Falls

(Celeste Tholen Rosenlof)


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HAVASU CREEK, Grand Canyon — If you have been on the Internet in the last 10 years, it's likely you have seen this iconic turquoise-colored waterfall cascading over bright redwall limestone.

This stunning swimming hole is in a remote part of the Grand Canyon and accessible only by a 10-mile hike in or by helicopter. The land is administered by the Havasupai Tribe, which has lived in the area for more than 1,000 years, according to Northern Arizona University. Known as Havasu 'Baaja — or people of the blue-green waters — the people are inseparable from the identity of the land.

"This blue- green water is sacred to the Havasupai. It flows not only across the land, but also through each tribal member. When you enter their land, you enter their home, their place of origin," according to the National Park Service.

And it's easy to emotionally invest in this landscape. From the first glimpse of the water, it's difficult to resist being captivated by its unbelievably bright color.

This is also an immensely popular destination. The falls are crowded and the campground spots are tight. Expect close quarters and to get to know your fellow campers. You will likely hike in and out with a large group of people, which is both comforting and a little pesky if you're looking for a pristine trail and a solitary experience. It's kind of like the Disneyland of backpacking trips — nobody gets to ride Space Mountain in their own car and nobody gets to experience this place without company. You'll wait in line and you will deal with other people. If you're OK with that and the trade-off is worth it to you, then you'll have a great time. If you want to experience unadulterated nature on your own, however, this isn't the trip for you. This can also be a difficult hike, especially as temperatures rise.

Mooney Falls. Photo credit: Celeste Tholen Rosenlof
Mooney Falls. Photo credit: Celeste Tholen Rosenlof

If you're still interested after reading that caution, then start planning. This is not a trip you wing.

Make a reservation

First of all, you must make a reservation. Nobody except tribe members may day hike into the canyon. You may reserve a spot in the campground down by the falls or stay at the lodge. The tribe begins taking reservations for the campground on Feb. 1. Since this is such a popular destination, you should reach out early in order to reserve your preferred dates. Contact information for the lodge, campground and tourism office can be found on the tribe's website.

If you would like your gear brought in by a burro for an extra cost, the tourism office can also arrange that. In order to give yourself plenty of time to play and rest, I would recommend staying at least three nights, but more if you can swing it.

Directions

You start the 10-mile hike in at Havasupai Campground Parking Lot, or Hill Top — about a five-hour drive from Las Vegas. To get there, follow US-93/Route 66 to Indian Road in Coconino County, Arizona. About two hours and 15 minutes into the drive, the road will dead-end at Hill Top. There are no services down Indian Road, but there is a restroom at Hill Top. You will need to pack in your own water. This hike is not recommended for children. Parents may consider using the helicopter.

The hike in

It is recommended you begin your hike in the early morning or early evening hours to avoid the intense heat of the midday and to bring at least 2 liters of water per person, as there is no water for the first 8 miles of the hike. When we went, we each brought our 3 liter Camelbak bladders of water and a 24-ounce Gatorade for electrolytes. As we finished the trek, we did not regret carrying the extra weight in water, since we were well-hydrated and had a little extra water as the sun got higher in the sky.

Depending on your physical fitness level and how used to backpacking you are, the hike to and from the campground will take anywhere between four and seven hours. The first 1.5 miles of the hike is a steep decline (which you will climb on your way out), but once at the bottom of the cliff, it levels out for several miles, winding through a canyon that offers brief moments of shade, depending on the time of day.

About 8 miles from Hill Top, you will reach Supai Village. This is where you check in, pay for your camp spot, and get your wristbands and tent markers. The office prefers credit card payment. There is a small restaurant and trading post here. You can use the restrooms and refill your water, as well as take a rest before the last leg of your hike.

From the village, you head down a well-marked, sandy trail to Havasupai Falls. Along the way, you will pass tribe members' homes and New Navajo Falls. After 2 miles, you will reach the main event: Havasupai Falls. You hike downhill, following the fall to its descent, the travertine pool below. Here, you can stop for some fry bread or a cool drink if the stand is open, use the restroom, or keep going to find your camping spot. The campground has toilet facilities, water, and each camping spot has a picnic table. No campfires are allowed at the campground.

Day hikes

From the campground, there are a couple more day hikes you can take. Cascading Mooney Falls is a .5-mile hike from the campground, though a portion of it heads down the steep and somewhat slippery cliff. Ladders and chains are placed throughout for hand and footholds, but it may be frightful for those afraid of heights. Once down at the falls, however, you can find gorgeous spots to swim and play in the river.

If you want to continue farther down, about 3 miles from Mooney Falls is Beaver Falls, a series of smaller waterfalls that form pools between them. This trail criss-crosses the river and requires some finesse up a rope. Follow the trail downstream, and right before the trail turns north, keep heading down the canyon until you're in the shallow creekbed. Follow this to the rock ledges alongside Beaver Falls. Note that there is no drinking water along this hike, and be sure you bring plenty for the out-and-back hike.

If you do end up taking this trip, it can be an amazing experience. Take your time in the campground to play and swim in the cool, refreshing water and enjoy the company of your campmates. Havasu Canyon is a beautiful place unlike any other — just make sure you're prepared physically and ready to share the experience with others like you.

General tips:

  • This is the desert and it is hot. Wear clothing that breathes, apply and reapply sunscreen and drink plenty of water. Don't ruin your trip by getting dehydrated.
  • Pack your backpack wisely. If you're carrying in, be sure you have packed your backpack correctly, pared down excess weight and had your backpack fitted by an expert.
  • Bring a first-aid kit. Make sure you have bandages, moleskin and neosporin, along with any medications you may need along the way.
  • Wear proper footwear. Invest in some comfortable hiking boots and bring a pair of water shoes for the creek. Your feet will thank you and you lessen the likelihood of injury significantly when you wear appropriate footwear.
  • Book a motel in Kingman for the night before your hike. Kingman is about three hours from Hill Top, so staying here the night before means you can get an early start, even if it means you have to wake up very early.
  • Plan a meal for Hill Top after your hike out. It's likely you will finish this 10-mile hike and be very hungry — especially after that last push up the steep hill. Bring cash to buy something from the vendors in the parking lot or stash enough food in your pack for a meal.

About this hike:

Type: Out and back, overnight

Trail: Rocky, hardpack and sandy

Length: 8 miles to village, 2 miles to campground

Difficulty level: Medium difficult

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